Varde 77’s leather jacket is basically made by one sewing artisan, from leather cutting to sewing.
There is a desire of a designer who wants to make it by a trustworthy skilled craftworker rather than having a factory person who has never met.
I entered with a designer at the scene of a leather sewing craftworker in the country which handles a number of famous brands.
Interview the meeting place.
Although I can not show the whole process in detail, I will introduce a part of the meeting place.
The designer himself also possesses leather sewing machines and leather woven baskets at home and has the intention to design and give instructions after grasping the process of making leather.
By knowing the process of making leather, you can also look up craftsmen.
The craftworker chosen by the sharpened eyes was experienced one.
The designer does not want to show the part behind the production originally.
He tells me that he wants to show things that are perfectly completed than unfinished parts.
However, this time I answer the request and accompany the designer.
“You can take a picture, but it’s not a cool place,” a word. Lol
Realistic photo different from photographs produced in magazines etc.
I first entered the factory of Varde 77’s sewing craftsman.
The skin of an animal will rot if you leave it alone. I will tan (lick) so that it will not decay with chemicals etc in tanner (leather processing plants). It becomes skin → leather with tanner and it is dyed to the color of your choice. In that part, the designer first develops the atmosphere of leather, but this time it is a sewing site so this part is omitted. Bring the finished leather to the site of sewing through the process at Tanner.
The sample has already been finished at this timing and we are doing sorting of how to cut the part to cut the leather for reconciliation toward the actual product. Because leather is different from dough, all parts can not be used. Therefore, the sense of the craftsman who cuts is very important. The designer is doing a detailed meeting with the craftsman.
At first Varde 77 ‘s leather jacket pattern is made of hands (made by hand without using CAD pattern production system). Then CAD will be used when developing size. Since there is also a pattern check after size expansion (grading) this time, he check the output pattern again.
使う部分が指示されて、実際に裁断を行っていきます。
そして、縫う糸のピッチやサイズも再確認。
Parts to be used are instructed and cuts are actually carried out.
Also he reconfirm the pitch and size of the sewing thread.
革のいらない部分を使って仮縫いをして糸の色、バランスピッチなどをすり合わせていました。
We tentatively sewed using the parts not requiring leather and talked about thread color, balance pitch and so on.
サンプル製作時には、いろいろな糸で試して、革と相性がよくバランスや強度があるものを探しているそうです。2017AWの「A-1 TYPE DAMAGE HORSE LEATHER JACKET」はリブをあえて大きく作って縫製の段階で波打つような特殊な縫い方をしているのもこの現場から生まれました。(まだリブが生産されていないので取材できませんでした。)
At the time of sample fabrication, I tried with various threads, seems to be looking for good balance with compatibility with leather and strength. 2017 AW’s “A-1 TYPE DAMAGE HORSE LEATHER JACKET” was born out of this scene, making a special sewing way to make the ribs dare big and make a wavy stitch at the stage of sewing. (We were unable to interview because ribs were not produced yet.
This time it was not at the time of sample production, but because of the time of check before this production, it was not done until actual sewing because there was no time, but I was able to see the skill of a skilled craftsman.
Next time, I would like to also cover the site where products will be finished.
