The skin of an animal will rot if you leave it alone. I will tan (lick) so that it will not decay with chemicals etc in tanner (leather processing plants). It becomes skin → leather with tanner and it is dyed to the color of your choice. In that part, the designer first develops the atmosphere of leather, but this time it is a sewing site so this part is omitted. Bring the finished leather to the site of sewing through the process at Tanner.
The sample has already been finished at this timing and we are doing sorting of how to cut the part to cut the leather for reconciliation toward the actual product. Because leather is different from dough, all parts can not be used. Therefore, the sense of the craftsman who cuts is very important. The designer is doing a detailed meeting with the craftsman.
At first Varde 77 ‘s leather jacket pattern is made of hands (made by hand without using CAD pattern production system). Then CAD will be used when developing size. Since there is also a pattern check after size expansion (grading) this time, he check the output pattern again.
Parts to be used are instructed and cuts are actually carried out.
Also he reconfirm the pitch and size of the sewing thread.
We tentatively sewed using the parts not requiring leather and talked about thread color, balance pitch and so on.
サンプル製作時には、いろいろな糸で試して、革と相性がよくバランスや強度があるものを探しているそうです。2017AWの「A-1 TYPE DAMAGE HORSE LEATHER JACKET」はリブをあえて大きく作って縫製の段階で波打つような特殊な縫い方をしているのもこの現場から生まれました。(まだリブが生産されていないので取材できませんでした。)
At the time of sample fabrication, I tried with various threads, seems to be looking for good balance with compatibility with leather and strength. 2017 AW’s “A-1 TYPE DAMAGE HORSE LEATHER JACKET” was born out of this scene, making a special sewing way to make the ribs dare big and make a wavy stitch at the stage of sewing. (We were unable to interview because ribs were not produced yet.
This time it was not at the time of sample production, but because of the time of check before this production, it was not done until actual sewing because there was no time, but I was able to see the skill of a skilled craftsman.
Next time, I would like to also cover the site where products will be finished.